Turkish Cuisine

A practical-minded child watching Mother cook "cabbage dolma" on a lazy; gray winter day is bound to wonder : "Who on earth discovered this peculiar combination of sautéed rice, pine-nuts, currants, spices, herbs and all tightly wrapped in translucent leaves of cabbage all exactly half an inch thick and stacked up on an oval serving plate decorated with lemon wedges? How was it possible to transform this humble vegetable to such heights of fashion and delicacy with so few additional ingredients? And, how can such a yummy dish possibly also be good for one"

The modern mind, in a moment of contemplation, has similar thoughts upon entering a modest sweets shop in Turkey where "baklava" is the generic cousin of a dozen or so sophisticated sweet pastries with names like : twisted turban, sultan, saray (palace), lady’s navel, nightingale’s nest… The same experience awaits you at a "muhallebi" (pudding shop) with a dozen different types of milk puddings.

One can only conclude that the evolution of this glorious Cuisine was not an accident. Similar to other grand Cuisine of the world, it is a result of the combination of three key elements. A nurturing environment is irreplaceable. Turkey is known for an abundance and diversity of foodstuff due to its rich flora, fauna and regional differentiation. And the legacy of an Imperial Kitchen is inescapable. Hundreds of cooks specializing in different types of dishes, all eager to please the royal palate, no doubt had their influence in perfecting the Cuisine as we known it today The Palace Kitchen, supported by a complex social organization, a vibrant urban life, specialization of labor, trade, and total control of the Spice Road, reflected the culmination of wealth and the flourishing of culture in the capital of a mighty Empire. And the influence of the longevity of social organization should not be taken lightly either. The Turkish State of Anatolia is a millenium old and so, naturally, is the Cuisine. Time is of the essence; as Ibn’i Haldun wrote, "The religion of the King, in time, becomes that of the People", which also holds for the King’s food. This, the reign of the Ottoman Dynasty during 600 years, and a seamless cultural transition into the present day of modern Turkey led to the evolution of a grand Cuisine through differentiation, refinement and perfection of dishes, as well as their sequence and combination of the meals.

It is quite rare when all three of the above conditions are met, as they are in the French, the Chinese and the Turkish Cuisine. The Turkish Cuisine has the extra privilege of being at the cross-roads of the Far-East and the Mediterranean, which mirrors a long and complex history of Turkish migration from the steppes of Central Asia (where they mingled with the Chinese) to Europe (where they exerted influence all the way to Vienna). All these unique characteristics and history have bestowed upon the Turkish Cuisine a rich and varied n umber of dishes, which can be prepared and combined with other dishes in meals of almost infinite variety, but always in a non-arbitrary way This led to a Cuisine that is open to improvisation through development of regional styles, while retaining its deep structure, as all great works of art do. The Cuisine is also an integral aspect of culture. It is a part of the rituals of everyday life events. It reflects spirituality, in for ms that are specific to it, through symbolism and practice.

Anyone who visits Turkey or has a meal in a Turkish home, regardless of the success of the particular cook, is sure to notice how unique the Cuisine is. Our intention here is to help the uninitiated to enjoy Turkish food by achieving a higher level of understanding of the repertoire of dishes, related cultural practices and their spiritual meaning.

Turkish Meatball, Kofte

When traveling and in need of a light but satisfying lunch, we head first for a kofte restaurant. Many places in Turkey have a nationwide reputation for their kofte, such as Edirne, Inegöl, Tekirdag, Sultanahmet in Istanbul, Adapazari, Sanliurfa, Akçaabat and Adana (other places I have not enumerated will I hope forgive me for the omission), and you are sure to find a kofte shop at every step. That marvelous appetizing flavor draws you in the right direction like a magnet. Fried kofte are also unforgettable. As the plates of kofte with golden fried potatoes arrive at the table, every eye, nose and fork is turned in their direction. Cold kofte cooked the previous day are associated with school outings, excursions with friends, and family picnics, with the classical accompaniments of hard-boiled eggs, tomatoes, cucumbers, stuffed vine leaves, savory boreks and fruit.

If kofte are lightly fried, arranged in a baking dish with sliced potatoes and aubergines, a sauce of grated tomato cooked briefly in butter poured over, and baked in the oven, you have sahan kofte. If you mix your minced meat with rice instead of breadcrumbs, form the mixture into small balls, stew them in tomato sauce, and finally thicken the sauce with a liaison of a little flour and perhaps some lemon juice, you have eksili kofte, sulu kofte or Izmir kofte. For Sis kofte Gaziantep, Adana, Urfa or Aleppo style, threaded onto flat or angular skewers and grilled, the meat is not ground in a mincing machine but very finely chopped with a special knife, and then mixed with the particular combination of onion and seasoning used in each region. Whether mild or peppery, they go perfectly with a glass of tangy turnip juice.

In southern and southeastern Turkey, bulgur wheat is an essential ingredient of many varieties of meatball, above all the stuffed meatballs known as içli kofte with an outer shell of bulgur and minced meat and a filling of walnuts and spicy minced meat. Raw kofte are a specialty that requires top-quality meat without a trace of fat. This is then minced and kneaded with bulgur and the purplish hot pepper of the region, a task that requires skill, strength and patience to achieve perfect result. After eating four or five of these exquisitely flavored kofte you will be smoldering internally from the pepper, and the heat of the sun will seem mild in comparison! A quite different type of kofte has a name that is as memorable as its taste. Kadinbudu, or ladies’ thighs kofte are prepared from a mixture of fried and raw minced meat with boiled rice, dipped in beaten egg and fried.

Reference: Tunca Varis / Skylife

Imam Bayildi

It consists of eggplant stuffed with onions, garlic, and tomatoes, then

simmered in olive oil. It is served cold like other dishes cooked with

olive oil, which are also called zeytinyagli in general. Another

variant is karnıyarık, which also includes mincemeat.

Gullac

Gullac by sadeog

Gullac is mentioned by Charles Perry (1994) as being the first version of baklava (he calls it proto-baklava). The similarities among the two desserts are many, such as the use of thin phyllo-like dough and the nut filling (usually pistachio or walnuts).

It was first mentioned in a Chinese cookbook about the cuisine of the people of Mongolia. It is very sweet because it uses a lot of sugar and milk. Gullac formerly used for making Gullac Lokmasi and Gullac Baklavasi, which were former Turkish desserts. They were made during Ottoman period in Turkey.

Acibadem Kurabiyesi

Acibadem Kurabiyesi by Marchnwe

Because bitter almonds are not readily available, almond extract is
typically used as a substitute. These cookies are part of the stock-in
trade of almost every bakery in Turkey, and, they are seldom made at
home.

Alanya Kebab

Such kebab is completely unknown in Turkey. The dish is very popular in

Scandinavia, where it is the fifth most-eaten fast food behind Hot dog,

hamburger, pizza and Döner kebab

Tavuk Gogsu

It was known in ancient Rome and introduced (or perhaps reintroduced) into Anatolia by the Romans.

Beyti Kebab

Another common name for Beyti kebab is Lokma.

Bread (Ekmek)

Make 1 Loaf

½oz/15g fresh yeast, or ¼oz/7g dried yeast

½ teaspoon sugar

4fl oz/125ml lukewarm water

1lb/450g strong white flour

1-teaspoon salt

6-8fl oz/175-250ml cold water

scant teaspoon olive or sunflower oil. 

Preheat oven to 425F/Mark 7/220C

·  Cream the yeast with sugar in the lukewarm water until frothy.

·  Sift the flour with the salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the yeast and the cold water. Draw in a little of the flour from the sides to make a smooth batter. Sprinkle a dusting of flour over the surface of the batter, cover the bowl with a damp cloth, and leave the batter to sponge for about 20 minutes. Remove the cloth, draw in the rest of the four, and knead well. Continue to knead the dough on a lightly floured surface until smooth and elastic.

·  Pour the oil in the bottom of a bowl, flip the bread dough over in it, cover the bowl with a damp towel, and leave the dough to prove for a few hours until doubled in size.

·  Punch the dough down, knead it again on a light floured surface and mould it into the shape you want. Place it on a  floured baking tray and leave to prove again under a damp towel. Once it has doubled in size, you can score it with a sharp knife, glaze it, and sprinkle it with a variety of seeds. For a simple plain loaf just brush a little milk over the surface to harden the crust.

·  Bake it in the oven for 30-40 minutes, then turn it upside down and return to the oven for 5 more minutes. It should sound hollow when the bottom is tapped. Leave to cool a little on a wire rack.

Village Bread –Koy Ekmegi

Village bread is basically a solid, round or oblong, wholemeal loaf baked in an outdoor clay oven. In southeastern Anatolia it is sometimes spiked with coriander, fennel or caraway seeds.

Makes 1 Large Loaf

½oz/15g fresh yeast, or ¼oz/7g dried yeast

½ teaspoon sugar

3-4fl oz/100-125ml lukewarm water

1lb/450g wholemeal flour

8oz/225g strong unbleached flour

1-teaspoon salt

12-14fl oz/350-400ml cold water

Scant teaspoon olive or sunflower oil 

·   Preheat oven to 425/Mark 7/220C

·   Cream the yeast with the sugar in the lukewarm water. Leave to froth.

·   Sift the flours and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast ad most of the water. Draw in some of the flour from the sides to make a loose paste, sprinkle a little of the flour over the surface, cover the bowl with a damp cloth, an leave to sponge for 20-25 minutes. Now knead the mixture together, adding extra water or flour if necessary, into a smooth ball. Continue to knead it on a lightly floured surface until smooth and elastic. Pour the oil into a clean bowl. Roll the dough in it, cover the bowl with a damp towel and leave it to prove until doubled in size.

·   Punch the dough down and knead again on a lightly floured board. Mould it into a flat circle and place on a floured baking sheet. Cover with a damp towel and leave to double in size. Then place it in the oven for 35-40 minutes. If it doesn’t sound hollow when you tap the bottom, return it to the oven, upside-down, for 3 more minutes. Leave to cool on a wire rack.

Corn Bread – Misir Ekmegi

Also a village bread, the yellow corn bread is particularly popular in central and eastern Anatolia. It is often made in the same way as koy ekmegi, and when stale it is reconstituted in soup. The corn meal is kneaded with water until elastic, and divided into four or five balls. These are then rolled flat, brushed with melted butter, folded into envelopes, then folded again into small packages and dipped in flour, before being rolled out again into circles or squares. These flat breads are cooked quickly on both sides on a hot tava or griddle, spread with melted butter, then browned on both sides until crisp.

Makes 1 Big Round Loaf

½oz/15g fresh yeast, or ¼oz/7g dried yeast

3-4fl oz/100-125ml lukewarm water

½ teaspoon sugar

8oz/225g strong unbleached flour

1lb/450g strong unbleached flour

1-teaspoon salt

12-14fl oz/350-400ml cold water

Scant teaspoon olive or sunflower oil

·   Follow the method of village bread.

Simit

Sesame Brad Rings

Bread rings rolled in sesame seeds, simit are sold in every bakery and on every street. The cries of the simitci reverberate in the streets as he makes his wake through the crowds with a tray of fresh simit on his head. A popular breakfast and snack bread, often eaten on its own, simit can be made with sweetened spongy dough or with this simple bread dough.

Makes 6-8 Simit

1/2oz/15g fresh yeast, or 1/4oz/7g-dried yeast

½ teaspoon

¼ pint/150ml lukewarm water

1lb/450g strong unbleached flour

1-teaspoon sugar or honey

1 tablespoon sunflower oil or melted butter

1 egg, beaten

A flat bowl filled with roasted sesame seeds

A few drops olive or sunflower oil

·  Preheat oven to 400F/Mark 6/200C

·  Cream the yeast with ½ teaspoon of guar in a little of the lukewarm water. Leave to froth.

·  Sift the flour with the salt into a bowl and stir in the tablespoon of sugar. Make a well in the centre and our in the yeast, oil and the rest of the water, using your hands to draw the flour in from the sides. Add more water if necessary. Knead well on a lightly floured surface until smooth and elastic. Roll the ball of dough in few drops of oil in a bowl and cover with a damp towel. Leave to prove for a few hours until doubled in size.

·  Now punch the dough down, knock it back into a ball and divide it into 6-8 pieces. Knead each piece and shape it into a ring, approximately 7in/18cm in diameter, brush it with the beaten egg and dip it into the bowl of sesame seeds. When you have made them all, place them on an oiled baking sheet, cover with a damp towel and leave to relax for 15-20 minutes. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until they are golden-brown and sound hollow when taped on the bottom.

Pide

Soft Bread Pouches

Large rounds or ovals or hollowed, knobbly, spongy pide, baked in hot ovens, are served to soak up all kinds of food. They should be short in texture, with a slightly crispy crust, but can be varied according t personal taste. A swift bake in the high oven produces a crisp crust with a hollow pouch, whereas a longer back in a lower oven produces softer bread with a barely discernible pouch good for mopping up garlicky olive oil a yogurt. Small, thin pouches are filled with grilled kofte and onions and eaten as a snack. To keep them soft and warm, place a dray towel over them when fresh out of the oven, and if they need to be resuscitated before eating sprinkle them with water and place them in a hot oven for a few minutes.

Makes 2 Medium-Sized or 1 Large Pide

½oz/15g fresh yeast, or 1/4oz/7g dried yeast

1/2 teaspoon sugar

4-6fl oz/125-175ml lukewarm water

1lb/450g strong unbleached flour

1 teaspoon

2 tablespoons thick yogurt

2 tablespoons olive oil or melted butter

1 egg, beaten

1-tablespoon nigella seeds (p.220)

A few drops olive or sunflower oil

·  Preheat oven to 450F/Mark 8/230C

·  Preheat 2 baking sheets

·  Cream the yeast with sugar in a little of the lukewarm water. Leave to froth.

·  Sift the flour with the salt. Make a well in the middle and pour in the yeast, the tablespoons of oil, they yogurt and the rest of the water, using your hands to draw in the flour from the sides and work the mixture into a sticky dough. Add more water if necessary. Knead until the dough becomes a pliable and leaves the sides of the bowl. Continue to knead on a lightly floured surface until the dough is smooth and elastic. Roll it in the few drops of oil in a bowl, cover with a damp towel, and leave to prove until doubled in size.

·  Punch the dough down, knead it again and divide it into two pieces. Knead each piece well. Flatten them out with the heel of your hand, and stretch them into large uneven rounds or ovals, creating a thick lip around the edges. Indent the dough with your fingertips.

·  Lightly oil two hot baking sheets and place them in the oven for 2-3 minutes. Place the pide on them, brush with a little beaten egg, and sprinkles the nigella seeds over the top. Bake them for 10-15 minutes, until lightly golden with a crisp crust around the edges. Transfer them to a wire rack. If you want them to retain their soft, spongy texture all dray, wrap them in foil or in a dry towel while still warm.

Coban Salatasi

It is considered by many as light, refreshing and easy to make and is

especially popular during summer. It is a combination of finely chopped

tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, green peppers and flat-leaf parsley. The

dressing consists of a simple mix of lemon juice, extra virgin olive

oil and salt.