Uskudar
The district behind Leander’s Tower is Uskudar, the historical location for crossings to the European side.
The 16th century mosques and the monumental fountain in the square, and the miniature §emsi Pasa Mosque and the medrese on the shore, both built by Sinan, are fine examples of Turkish architecture.
The historical Karacaahmet Cemetery is located on the slopes of Uskudar and behind these rise the Carnhca hills. These hills covered with pine groves offer a bird’s eye view of the Bpsphorus and the Princes’ Islands.
Besiktas
When viewed from the sea front, it will definitely catch your eye just across the Dolmabahce Palace with its dock and its high and shining statue which was built in recent years… Besiktas is one of the most central districts of Istanbul as well. Once you are in Besiktas, you are sure to reach any spot in Istanbul. Whether by boat, or by bus, or minibus or by taxi… The age of Besiktas documents its ancient history, though not comparable to the seniority of Istanbul itself. Throughout history, one of the people who had talked about Besiktas and its surroundings is Dionysos of Byzantine. Besiktas which, in that period, had a very different structure compared to today, was a forest. Today’s Dolmabahçe was then a cove as seen in its name. (Dolmabahçe in Turkish means “filled garden”). Theorizing on what Dionysos tell, it is thought that Arheion he mentions is Besiktas. Besiktas region (Arheion) which had Emperors’ summer houses, docks and indeed one temple, is described with hills and a river flowing between them towards north. In reality, today’s Ihlamurdere Street, is an ancient river bed. (Ihlamurdere = Ihlamur Stream)
There are many theories on the root of the name “Besiktas”. One of the most notable dates back to famous Ottoman sailor, navy commander Barbaros Hayrettin Paşa (In western world, Barbaros Hayrettin Paşa is known with the name “Barbarossa”. This name was given to him because of his red beard). According to the theory, the name of Besiktas comes from Beştaş (Beştaş = Five Stones). And these five stones are the five stone columns Barbaros built to tie the ships to the land…
Besiktas earned an identity for being a residence area in Ottoman period. Most influential factor in residence in the Boshporus is climate. Especially the coast’s being open to hard weather currents from the north and the south and the humidity created by the sea requires the buildings by the coasts to be protected. This means expensive construction. Ottomans preferred wooden construction for reasons of being cheap, easy to construct and restorate. This type of buildings’ being suitable only for summer residence on the coast caused emrgence of a special type of architecture called “yalı” in the history of the Boshporus extending to 20th century. The main residence was on coves, valleys, and south skirts of hills where are less effected by hard weather currents. Besiktas was developed in this nature. Besiktas was the first residential area to rise in the coasts of the Boshporus.
Taksim Square
It is considered the heart of modern Istanbul, and is the location of the Cumhuriyet Anıtı (Republic Monument), which was built in 1928 and commemorates the formation of the Turkish Republic.
Taksim, meaning "division" or "distribution" or Ottoman Turkish, was originally the point where the main water lines from the north of Istanbul were collected and branched off to other parts of the city (hence the name). This use for the area was established by Sultan Mahmud I. The square takes its name from the stone reservoir which is located in this area. Additionally, the Turkish word "Taksim" can refer to a special improvisational musical form in Turkish classical music that is guided by the Makam system.
Taksim is a main transportation hub and a popular destination for both tourists and the native population of Istanbul. İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue), a long pedestrian shopping street, ends at this square, and a nostalgic tram runs from the square along the avenue, ending near the Tünel (1875) which is the world’s second-oldest subway line after London’s Underground (1863). Surrounding Taksim Square are numerous travel agencies, hotels, restaurants, pubs, and international fast food chains such as Pizza Hut, McDonald’s and Burger King. It is also home to some of Istanbul’s grandest hotels including the InterContinental, the Ritz-Carlton and The Marmara Hotel.
Taksim is also a favourite location for public events such as parades, New Year celebrations or other social gatherings.
Atatürk Cultural Center (Atatürk Kültür Merkezi), a multi-purpose cultural center and opera house, is also located on Taksim Square.
Sariyer
The Sariyer district is a huge area comprised of the villages on the European shores of the Bosphorus from Rumelifeneri, down through Tarabya, Yenikoy, Istinye, Emirgan to Rumelihisari, in other words most of the Bosphorus. Sarıyer also administers the Black Sea coast to the west of the mouth of the Bosphorus including the village of Kilyos. Her neighbours are Eyüp the northwest, Beşiktaş the south and Sisli the west.
When the road following the shore takes a turn after Tarabya, the opening of the Bosphorus to the Black Sea becomes visible for the first time. Starting from here, the shore is lined with old mansions belonging to embassies or individuals and fish restaurants all the way into the Sariyer district.
A narrow road forking from Biiyukdere crosses forests and aqueducts and reaches the famous beaches of Kilyos on the Black Sea coast. Sariyer and Rumeli Kavagi are the last stops of the regular boat services and the cruises along the Bosphorus.
These two districts, known for their fish restaurants and Anadolu Kavagi on the opposite shore are very crowded on holidays. Beyond these settlements, the hills on both sides are covered only by the green of the forests. The last settlements on the Bosphorus are the Anadolu and Rumeli lighthouses and the fishermens villages at their feet.
Sultanahmet
The imperial palace, known as the "Great Palace", used to spread over an area extending from the Hippodrome down to the seashore. Only the mosaic floor panel of a large hall remains from this palace today. The Augusteion, the most important square of the city, used to be here, and between the square and the main avenue there was the Millairium victory arch. The road used to extend as far as Rome and the stone marking the first kilometer was located here. The baths, temples, religious, cultural, administrative and social centers were all in this district. The area maintained its importance in the Byzantine and Turkish eras. Therefore some of the most important monuments of Istanbul such as the Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet Mosque, the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art and the Basilica Cistern are all located around the Hippodrome.
The main streets in the city (those leading down to the harbor and those extending toward the city walls in the west) started at the Hippodrome and followed the slopes of the hills. The streets were lined with business establishments and mansions. The side streets were narrow and some were stepped. Some of the main streets had two-galleried sidewalks. There were spacious squares along the route and the side roads forking from these squares led to the city gates. The main avenue was called the Mese, and Via Egnetia, the road to Rome, started at the Golden Gate (Altmkapi).
Hippodrome means square for horses. The Hippodrome was built by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus towards the end of the 2nd century and it was extended to an immense size by Constantine the Great. Some historians claim that it could seat thirty thousand spectators, while others put the figure at sixty thousand. The main attraction was the two or four-horse chariot races. In Roman and Byzantine times, the Hippodrome served as the city’s main meeting, entertainment and sports center until the 10tn century. Like many of the other monuments in the city, it lost its importance with the Latin invasion in 1204. Besides the chariot races and gladiator fights with wild animals, there were performances by musicians, dancers and acrobats. There were many public holidays during Roman times to allow opportunities for all these activities.
The Hippodrome was shaped like a gigantic "U" and the imperial box, built like a balcony with four bronze horses on its roof, was situated on the eastern side. The sand-covered surface of the Hippodrome was divided into two by a low wall around which the chariots raced. On this wall stood monuments brought here from different corners of the empire and the statues of famous riders and their horses. Successful chariot drivers were very wealthy and could have anything they wanted. Originally there were 4 teams of drivers whose supporters’ clubs formed large quarrelling factions and competed for position and prestige in the city. From time to time politics intermingled with the races, and the clashes between competing forces turned into bloody massacres.
The original ground level of the Hippodrome was 4 or 5 meters lower than the present surface. Three monuments have remained to our day: the Egyptian Obelisk, the Serpent Column and the Walled Obelisk. In the Turkish era, too, festivals, ceremonies and performances used to be organized here in Sultanahmet. The Palace of Ibrahim Pasa opposite Sultan Ahmet Mosque is the sole example of the imposing private residences of the 16th century. This elegant building now houses the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art.
Only the round southern end of the vast Hippodrome has survived. This is a brick structure decorated with tall vaults. In later ages, all of the stone blocks and columns of the Hippodrome were used for building material. The ruins in the park to the right of the entrance to the Hippodrome belong to 4th" and 5th century private palaces, and a little further along there are the remains of the Byzantine Hagia Euphemia church.
Eminonu
Eminonu covers the point on which the Byzantine capital was built. The Galata Bridge crosses the Golden Horn into Eminonu and the mouth of the Bosphorus opens into the Marmara Sea. And up on the hill stands Topkapı Palace, the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) and Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya). Thus Eminonu is the main tourist destination in Istanbul.
History of Eminonu
The Golden Horn was a natural port, particularly the Eminonu/Sirkeci shore, which being on a peninsula was also eminently defensible. It was for this port that İstanbul was built, and from here that İstanbul grew, with the oldest neighbourhoods being the port districts along the Golden Horn. In time the Byzantine port was also occupied by merchants from Genoa and Pisa, who eventually acquired their own wharfs and waterfront districts.
The Golden Horn was still a thriving port in Ottoman times, occupied by importers, warehousemen, sailors and traders of every description, the centre of trade in the city, a labryinth of narrow streets wokshops and markets leading uphill to Topkapı Palace, the Ottoman capital.
The district’s name, Eminonu, also reflects its’ place in history. Translated from Turkish to English it roughly means ‘in front of justice’. Emin meaning ‘justice’, önü meaning ‘in front of’. The name most probably came from the Ottoman courts and customs houses on the docks.
The nature of the place did of course change in the industrial age; the Galata Bridge was built across the Golden Horn; steamships came, then electricity, then the railway and the Istanbul terminal of the Orient Express was naturally sited at Sirkeci Station. The sea walls still surrounded the city, and the sea gates of the port of Eminonu were the point of entry for goods, and for people.
Following the huge railway station, other grand stone buildings followed in the late Ottoman period, commercial buildings, the central post office among others. And in the early days of the Turkish Republic, Eminonu was renovated extensively; the big square was opened up in front of Yeni Cami (by clearing out the tollbooths at the end of the Galata Bridge); The Spice bazaar was restored; the fish market was cleared off the shore of the Golden Horn and a road opened up to the new bridge at Unkapanı.
By the 1950s, the area was continuously clogged up with traffic, which was eased somewhat by the construction of the large coast road around the point and all the way out to Istanbul airport.
Eminonu today
Although the government has moved to Ankara and Istanbul has expanded rapidly to becoming the enormous city we have today with the centre of the business world now in huge shiny buildings elsewhere in the city, Eminonu is still buzzing. It still has the busiest ferry crossings for the Bosphorus and for the Marmara Sea, still has the only car ferry across the Bosphorus and still has the only mainline railway terminus (where trains can be caught to Eastern Thrace (Trakya) and Europe)and people flood into the area on boats, buses, or the light metro from Aksaray.
During the daytime the area is packed with trades people and their customers, a horde of shoppers and the many tourists too. Add to this a number of key government buildings including the governor’s office and the main campus of Istanbul University in Beyazit. At night it is very, very quiet. There is some housing in Eminonu but most of the buildings are offices, shops and workshops, and if you do happen to be there in the evening the contrast with the daytime is eery and somewhat menacing. In the daytime there are 2,000,000 people in Eminonu, but the district has only 30,000 residents. The people that do live in Eminonu are working class and conservative.
Polonezkoy
Polonezkoy was on the outskirts of Alemdag, on the Anatolian edge of the Strait. It was called Adanköy by the Ottomans. Later, it was called “Polonez Karyesi”. During the first and second world war (1923), it was officially called “Polonezkoy” where it gained an ethnic identity.
From the second half of the 18th century, the Ottoman Empire had accepted the need of making some changes against the challenges of Western Europe, especially Russia. Russia, who was making plans to conquer Istanbul, became enemies of the Ottomans, who shared the same destiny as Poland. This situation, that was of no importance at first, became more significant with the defeat of “November Mutiny” (1830-31) made against Russia in the Polish Kingdom and the efforts of Russia to remove the Ottomans from Caucasia. The first negotiations regarding the settling of a few thousand migrants whose majority had gone to France during the “Great Migration” in the Polish history. This was a result of the November Mutiny which was made between Prince Adam Jerzy Czartoryski and Namık Pasha in Paris in February 1833. But the plans that were made at those times failed. When the Ottoman Empire started the Westernization movements, the matter was again dealt with. The abolishment of Russian protection, that had been implemented during the Gülhane Hattı Hümayunu (1839) and the most important Hünkar İskelesi Agreement in 1833, with the London Straits Contract (June 13, 1841) caused Polish migrants to make attempts to continue their effects in the Ottoman Empire. Prince Adam J. Czartoryski selected the main representatives of the Poland East mission in 1841 and then appointed Michael Czajkowski to represent him, who was to be known as the faithful leader by the Ottomans. The representative would be in the centre of activities in the East and would resist against the Panislamism movements of the Russians with the help of the Slavs in the Balkans within the borders of the Ottoman Empire.
The representative’s mission was to provide information to both the Ottomans and to the Western countries by a network established from its sub-representatives. For this reason, it would not do anything which will be of benefit to the host country without the approval of it. This political representative that took the place of the diplomatic representative of Poland which was removed from the European map in the 18th century was often exposed to the Russian attacks and also caused strong diplomatic conflicts in the host countries. To bring a solution to this situation, a mission was given to the representative that did not take part in diplomatic implementations. It will protect the Polish living in the Ottoman Empire as a non-official establishment of a non-existing state. This matter had been negotiated in Paris and various solutions were recommended, including the creation of a Polish settlement. However, problems arose. The matter at hand was that, where could the Polish people who wanted to live in the Ottoman Empire could be found and how it would be achieved without getting the Ottomans involved in the matter or without allowing the Russians to start a diplomatic attempt at the Ottoman Empire. It was found that it was possible to establish a settlement where the Polish would live, however, it was thought that it would be better if it would be in a place under the French protectorate and not in the territories allocated to the emperor.
The attention was focused on the regions in St. Vincent d’Asia (New Farm) of Lazarist, where French laws were accepted and where the Polish lived before the establishment of Adampol. This issue had probably been negotiated before Michael Czajkowski moved to Istanbul, but taking an urgent measure couldn’t be accepted due to the financial problems of Prince Adam J. Czartoryski. The Prince was aware that the cost of this settlement would be very high for him. Although he was reluctant, he accepted the establishment of the settlement and the project was realized in this period. This project formed a base for activities of the representative in Istanbul and also a reasonable cause for the studies depending on the continuity of the settlement. The representative was dissolved 12 years later in 1852, the Ottoman territory began to be attractive for the Polish who wanted to gain their freedom again with the contributions of the representative. On the contrary, the settlement was thought to be a temporary one and whose population is formed from the Polish survivors.
The establishment of the village was officially realized after the signing of an agreement with Michael Czajkowski and Priest Leleu, the head of the Lazarist group in Istanbul, on behalf of Prince Adam J. Czartoryski, on March 3, 1842. The village is established as an agriculture settlement. The name “Adampol” appears as a result of combining the first name “Adam” of the Prince and the dream of establishing a free Poland (pol) in some place on earth. The aim of the establishers at this stage was to make the Adampol a base for other similar settlements. It would have military duties besides its agricultural function to allow the Polish go to this place on the Strait.
The dream of Micael Czajkowski that many, even millions of Polish would escape from the Russian army was far away from being realistic. On July in 1842, twelve Polish slaves many of them bought from Çerkez people by Lazarists settle on one part of the territory that is named St. Antonie by the Lazarists and Adampol by the Polish. Those are the people who form the center of the Polonez village named Adampol.
The Polish who wanted to live or find a temporary shelter had come to Adampol from many different places. The settlement has a territory of 5000 acres is clean and ready for use. The events in Europe and old Republic of Poland affect the migration to this place. The failure of the Hungarian revolt has directed the Polish soldier, who was fighting against Austria and Russia, to the Ottoman territory. Some of them came to Adampol and some families such as Biskunsiki settled in this area. The failure of the attempt of settling in Derbin (Tesela) caused an increase in the number of settlers coming to Adampol in the middle 1859s. The “January rebel” in Poland (1863-63) made the village a base for the ones who want to help the rebellions.
The number of Polish living in Adampol has never exceeded 250 (1914), it has even gradually decreased. Only 65 of the total population of 545 in 1922 is of Polish origin. At first, it was accepted that not only Polish, but also the Slavs could settle in this place and people from different origins were allowed to settle in. Prince Adam J. Czartoryski wanted to cooperate with the Balkan Slavs to prevent the increasing number of Russians entering Poland. When the history of Adampol is examined, it can be seen that the population of the village was composed of people from different origins and even Slavs. Especially in the near past, it can be seen that, this principle is disregarded when the Armenian and Turkish women are mentioned.
One rule that is definitely obeyed, it is about religion. All of the settlers are Catholic. But a priest from Poland is hard to find, they have to make effort to keep their religion alive. The devotion of the settlers to the Catholic belief, makes the Adampol live till toady, despite the disputes arising between Czartoryski family, Lazarists, Ottoman Empire and later, the official authorities of the Republic of Turkey.
Life hasn’t always been easy in the village. In the beginning, all the people in the village were dependent on the Lazarists for everything. The villagers had opened the area, constructed the houses and had faced great poverty. In the course of time, some financial resources had reached Adampol. The villagers were able to produce goods that would help them survive and also make money when sold. This had made some changes to the conditions. Contrary to the anticipations, the village never turned into a military settlement during its history of 150 years. This plan hadn’t been realized in the 19th century when the Polish State wasn’t existent and it couldn’t find the possibility to be realized after 1918 when Poland again gained its freedom. The Adampol settlers stayed faithful to the Polish traditions and their language. However, they began to adapt to the economic life of the region they settled in. The love they had for the Turkish territory, although they aren’t their ancestors, makes them stay here and accept the Ottoman Empire and the Republic of Turkey as their second land. They eventually considered it to be their motherland, although they are from the first origin that have settled here in the 19th century, they dream of Poland and they want Poland to be free again. In the course of time, Adampol left its agricultural characteristic and become a holiday resort.
The long existence of Adampol, which is a settlement with different traditions, culture and religion, is a result of the tolerance of the Ottomans, the Republic of Turkey and the political regulations made in Europe.
The legal position of Adampol in the 19th century was rather complex. The settlement was under the protection of the Lazanists till 1884 and the French representatives living in Istanbul because of the only legal owners of those territories, Prince Jerzy Czartoryski and his son Prince Wladistaw Czartoryski, who bought the territory in 1883, were living in this city. The death of Prince Wladistaw Czartoryski (1884) made the legal position of the settlement rather complex. Wladistaw Czartoryski is of French nationality, but his son Adam is the citizen of Austria. This situation probably caused the end of the protection of Adampol. In 1897, Islam law doctor Leon Ostrog, who was the lawyer in Bab-ı Ali (1909-13) and who made the Ottoman Empire see Adampol as a possession of the Czartoryski family, was appointed as the fully authorized representative of Adampol.
The protection was undertaken by the Austrian representative from 1904 till the end of the First World War. The Czartoryskis protected Adampol with their own representatives Michael Czajkowski (Sadık Pasha), Wladyslaw Koscielski (Sefer Pasha) and Wladyslaw Jordan through fully authorized representatives Feliks Gnatowski and Leon Ostrorog. When the Czartoryskis had no representatives left, Adampol inhabitants chose their own administrator. An election was made between Dr. Stanislaw Drozdowski, Priest Michael Lawrynowicz and persons from the families Biskupski, Wilkoszewski and Dochoda living in the village. The Czartoryskis didn’t pay as much attention to the village as they did in the 19th century. However, the devotion of the people in village to the Czartoryskis has always been respected by the Republic of Turkey. The family abandoned their territory in 1968 and the Polish settlers become the owner of their own territory in January in 1969. A large number of people started to buy land in this region when they got the right to, the areas that belonged to the Polish then decreased in Adampol. Inhabitants of Adampol started to migrate to other countries. This was a situation anticipated from the middle of the 19th century. “Let it remain between us my friend, but when the permitting the selling of private possessions is regarded, I don’t think that this place will have a future for us. Everybody will sell his or her territory to the first person offering money. That’s why, Poland will no longer be a colony, it will rapidly become cosmopolite.” 8Krakov, Czartoryski Library, Ew. Ind. 1191, from F. Breanski to S. Drowski, 12th of October 1882).
This regression still observed in the Polish Adampol settlement is a fact. The Adampol inhabitants, who are Turkish citizens, rapidly integrate with the society in which they live and the country of which they are citizens of. This integration is a process of no turning back and it will accelerate with the death of the old generation. Dialect is less spoken.
Kadikoy
Kadikoy is a residential and commercial district, and with its numerous bars, cinemas and bookshops, is the cultural centre of the Anatolian side. It became a district in 1928 by secession from Uskudar. Also, quarters of Icerenköy, Bostancı, Kadikoy and Suadiye separated from Kartal in same year. Its neighbours are Uskudar and Ümraniye the north, Kartal the northeast and Maltepe the east.
Beyoglu
The district encompasses other neighborhoods located north of the Golden Horn, including Galata (the medieval Genoese citadel from which Beyoglu itself originated), Karakoy, Cihangir, Sishane, Tepebasi, Tarlabasi, Dolapdere and Kasimpasa, and is connected to the old city center across the Golden Horn through the Galata Bridge and Unkapanı Bridge. Beyoglu is the most active art, entertainment and night life centre of Istanbul.
Ortakoy
In the past the town was a cosmopolitan area, with communities of Turks, Greeks, Armenians and Jews.
Today the neighbourhood still hosts many different religious (Jewish, Muslim, Orthodox, and other Christian) structures. It is also a popular spot for locals and tourists alike with its popular buildings that host art galleries, clubs, cafes, bars, and restaurants.
The Ortaköy Mosque is a beautifully ornate mosque, right on the jetty of Ortaköy, bordering on the water of the Bosphorus, and thus highly visible from passing boats.
Several reputable schools, such as Kabataş Erkek Lisesi and Galatasaray University, are located in Ortakoy.
The Bosphorus Bridge, one of the two bridges that connect the European and Asian banks of İstanbul, is situated in Ortakoy.
The neighbourhood was also the site of George W. Bush’s speech during the NATO Summit of 2004 that was delivered at the Galatasaray University.
Do not take baths, take showers. You will in average save about half the amount of water that you would if you were taking a bath.
